A storm forecast changes everything. One day your boat is sitting pretty at the dock in Ocean City, and two days later the water in Assawoman Bay is three feet above normal, wind is gusting past 60, and your spring lines are the only thing between "fine" and "catastrophe." Boat storm prep in Ocean City MD is not optional. It is the difference between riding out a weather event and dealing with a sunk, damaged, or displaced vessel.
The Eastern Shore gets hit from two directions. Atlantic hurricanes roll up the coast from June through November. Nor'easters pound the coastline from October through April. That leaves roughly four months per year without serious storm risk, and even those months get the occasional surprise. If you keep a boat anywhere between the Delaware coast and the OC inlet, you need a storm plan that goes beyond "hope for the best."
This guide covers exactly what to do, when to do it, and why each step matters. Whether you dock at a marina in West Ocean City, keep your boat on Isle of Wight Bay, or trailer it out of Indian River, the fundamentals are the same.
Why do boats in Ocean City and the Eastern Shore need a storm plan?
Ocean City sits on a barrier island where storm surge pushes into the back bays from the ocean side through the inlet while wind-driven water piles up from the bay side simultaneously. Surge in the OC back bays can reach 3-5 feet above normal. Nor'easters compound the problem by sitting over the region for 24-48 hours instead of blowing through quickly. Standard dock lines and fender heights are not sufficient.
Ocean City sits on a barrier island. That matters more than most boat owners realize. During a major storm, water pushes into the back bays from the ocean side through the inlet, while wind-driven water piles up from the bay side simultaneously. Boats in Assawoman Bay, Isle of Wight Bay, and the West Ocean City marina channels face surge from multiple directions.
Nor'easters create a different problem. They sit over the region for 24 to 48 hours instead of blowing through like a tropical system. That means sustained wind, prolonged surge, and continuous wave action on your dock lines. A tropical storm might hit hard for six hours; a nor'easter grinds on for two full days.
The Chesapeake Bay has its own dynamics. North winds push water down the bay and out, dropping water levels at the southern end. South winds do the opposite, stacking water against the northern shore. Boats docked anywhere on the Delmarva Peninsula need to account for both wind direction and tidal surge, because they change how much water ends up at your slip.
Key fact: Storm surge in the OC back bays can reach 3 to 5 feet above normal during a major hurricane or strong nor'easter. Standard dock line lengths and fender heights are not sufficient for that kind of water rise. Your storm prep needs to account for the boat moving vertically, not just laterally.
What should you do to prepare your boat 48 hours before a storm?
Storm prep follows a countdown: at 72+ hours, decide whether to haul or ride it out and inventory storm gear. At 48 hours, double all dock lines with chafe protection, cross lines in an X pattern, and reposition fenders for surge height. At 36 hours, remove or secure canvas and loose gear. At 24 hours, test bilge pumps, top off batteries, close through-hulls, and document the boat with photos.
Timing is everything. The tasks that need to happen 48 hours out are different from the ones you handle at 24 hours. Waiting too long makes some of these steps impossible, because yards fill up, dock hands are overwhelmed, and marina access gets restricted.
Here's the sequence, broken out by timeline.
72+ hours out: planning decisions
- Decide: stay or haul? If the forecast calls for a direct hit or major surge, hauling the boat is safest. But yards fill fast. Make this call early or you lose the option entirely.
- Contact your marina Check their storm protocols. Some marinas require specific prep. Others restrict access once conditions deteriorate.
- Inventory your storm gear Extra dock lines, chafe guards, extra fenders, battery-powered bilge pump backup, zip ties, heavy-duty straps. If you need to buy anything, do it now. Hardware stores sell out fast before a storm.
- Check your insurance Verify your coverage, document the current condition of the boat with photos, and confirm whether your policy requires specific storm prep actions.
Pro tip: Keep a "storm bin" on your boat or at home with extra lines, chafe guards, fenders, zip ties, and duct tape. When the forecast changes, you grab the bin and go instead of scrambling to a hardware store that's already picked clean.
48 hours out: dock lines and fenders
- Double all dock lines Every bow, stern, and spring line gets a backup. Use lines at least as thick as your primary set, ideally thicker.
- Add spring lines if you don't already have them Spring lines prevent the boat from surging forward and back in its slip. Without them, the bow and stern lines absorb all the shock load.
- Install chafe protection at every contact point Lines rubbing on dock cleats, chocks, and gunwales will saw through in a matter of hours under storm conditions. Wrap every rub point with chafe guard, old fire hose, or thick cloth.
- Cross dock lines Run lines from the bow to the far stern cleat on the dock, and from the stern to the far bow cleat. This creates an X pattern that prevents the boat from walking forward or backward out of the slip.
- Adjust line length for surge Lines need to be long enough that the boat can rise 3 to 5 feet without snapping them, but short enough that it doesn't swing into the dock or neighboring boats. This is the hardest part of storm prep. Too tight and lines break. Too loose and the boat crashes around.
- Reposition fenders for surge height Standard fender placement assumes normal water levels. Raise fenders to account for predicted surge. Add extra fenders between the boat and dock, and between the boat and any neighboring vessel.
Line angles matter: The ideal dock line angle during a storm is around 45 degrees. Steep angles (lines going straight down) don't absorb surge well. Shallow angles (lines running nearly parallel to the dock) don't prevent lateral movement. Aim for lines that slope at roughly 45 degrees from the boat to the dock cleat, with enough slack for vertical rise.
36 hours out: canvas, bimini, and loose gear
- Remove or strap down the bimini A bimini top acts like a sail in high wind. Either fold it down completely and strap it flat, or remove the canvas entirely and store it below.
- Remove eisenglass and canvas enclosures Clear vinyl panels will rip free in 50+ mph wind and become projectiles. Take them off, roll them carefully, and store them inside the cabin or in your vehicle.
- Secure or remove T-top accessories Outriggers folded and tied. Antennas removed or lashed down. Rod holders emptied. Anything mounted up high that catches wind needs to come down or get strapped.
- Strip loose gear from the deck Coolers, tackle boxes, cushions, fenders on the rail. Everything removable goes inside the cabin or off the boat entirely. A loose cooler becomes a wrecking ball in 70 mph gusts.
- Tape over any openings Use waterproof tape on rod holder openings, antenna mounts, and any deck penetration that could let rain in. This won't stop flooding from surge, but it prevents gallons of rain from pooling in the bilge during a multi-day storm.
24 hours out: systems check
- Test bilge pumps Run every bilge pump manually and confirm the float switch activates. Your bilge pumps are your last line of defense. If they fail during a storm, the boat fills with water.
- Top off batteries Fully charge your batteries. The bilge pumps need power to run during the storm. If your batteries are old or weak, this is when they fail you. Consider adding a backup battery or battery-powered bilge pump.
- Close and inspect through-hulls Check every through-hull fitting below the waterline. Close seacocks that don't need to be open. Inspect for cracks, corrosion, or loose hose clamps.
- Turn off unnecessary electronics Disconnect shore power if your marina advises it (power surges during storms can damage electronics). Leave the bilge pump circuit on.
- Shut off fuel valves Close fuel shut-offs to prevent leaks if lines get jostled during heavy seas at the dock.
Pro tip: Take photos and video of your entire boat before the storm. Walk around the dock, film the lines, the fenders, the hull condition, every side. If you need to file an insurance claim afterward, documented pre-storm condition is invaluable. Date-stamped photos on your phone work fine.
How does hurricane prep differ from nor'easter prep for boats?
Hurricanes bring the highest surge risk and fast wind shifts as they pass, making cross-dock lines essential. For Category 2+, hauling out is the best option. Nor'easters produce less surge but last 24-48 hours, which means chafe protection is more critical than line thickness because lines saw through during sustained rubbing. Cold temperatures also reduce nylon elasticity during nor'easters.
These two storm types hit differently, and that affects how you prepare.
Hurricanes and tropical storms (June through November)
Tropical systems bring the highest surge risk. They push massive amounts of water ahead of them, and that surge can arrive hours before the worst winds. In the OC back bays, surge can come through the inlet and from the bay side at the same time. For hurricanes, the haul-out conversation starts early. If a Category 2 or higher is forecast to make landfall within 100 miles, getting the boat out of the water is the best option. Period.
Other factors specific to hurricane boat preparation on the Delmarva Peninsula:
- Fast-moving systems hit hard but pass in 6 to 12 hours. Lines and fenders take a beating but for a shorter duration.
- Slow-moving systems are worse. Extended surge, persistent wind, and more time for lines to chafe through. Double your chafe protection for slow movers.
- Wind direction shifts as the storm passes. Lines need to handle load from the north, then east, then south. Cross-dock lines handle shifting wind better than straight bow/stern lines.
- Freshwater flooding from heavy rain adds to tidal surge. Boats in low-lying marinas can get hit from above and below simultaneously.
Nor'easters (October through April)
Nor'easters produce less dramatic surge but last much longer. A strong nor'easter can hammer the coast for 48 straight hours. That relentless pressure on dock lines, fenders, and canvas is what causes failures. Lines that would survive a 6-hour hurricane can saw through after 36 hours of sustained nor'easter conditions.
Nor'easter specific considerations:
- Duration kills More chafe protection matters more than thicker lines for nor'easters. Check and replace chafe guards between storm events if possible.
- Cold temperatures make lines stiffer and less elastic. Nylon lines lose some of their stretch when cold, which reduces their ability to absorb shock.
- Icing can freeze lines to cleats and build up on rigging. Ice adds weight up high, changing the boat's stability.
- These storms repeat. You might get three nor'easters in two weeks during a bad stretch. Keep your storm gear accessible all winter, not buried in a storage unit.
How do you prepare a trailered boat for a storm?
For trailered boats, drive inland if possible, deflate trailer tires slightly for a wider footprint, chock both sides of every wheel, remove the drain plug so rain drains out instead of collecting, and strap the boat to the trailer frame from bow and transom eyes. A hull full of rainwater on a trailer can collapse bunks or break the tongue.
If your boat is trailered, your storm plan looks different but isn't simpler.
- Drive it inland if you can. A boat on a trailer 30 miles from the coast is safer than one sitting in a coastal parking lot. If you have somewhere to take it, move it before the roads get crowded.
- Deflate the trailer tires slightly. Lower tire pressure gives the trailer a wider footprint and makes it harder for wind to push.
- Chock the wheels and set the parking brake. Chock both sides of each wheel. If the trailer has a parking brake, set it.
- Remove the drain plug. This lets rain drain out instead of collecting in the hull and adding weight. A boat full of rainwater on a trailer can collapse the bunks or break the tongue.
- Strap the boat to the trailer. Tie-downs from the bow eye and transom eyes to the trailer frame, in addition to the normal winch strap. Wind can lift a boat right off the bunks.
What should you check on your boat after a storm?
Check immediately whether the boat is floating level, inspect every dock line for chafe damage, look for hull scrapes or gel coat damage from dock contact, run the bilge pump, inspect through-hull fittings for water intrusion, and test battery voltage. Most importantly, photograph everything before touching anything -- insurance adjusters need to see post-storm condition before repairs begin.
After the storm passes, you need eyes on the boat as soon as it's safe. Some problems get worse fast if you don't catch them early.
Post-storm priority check
- Check if the boat is floating level If it's listing to one side or sitting lower than normal, water may have gotten in. Check the bilge immediately.
- Inspect every dock line Look for chafe damage, especially where lines contact cleats, chocks, and the gunwale. A line that's 50% worn through will break in the next storm.
- Check fenders and hull contact points Look for scrapes, gouges, or gel coat damage where the boat made contact with the dock or neighboring boats.
- Run the bilge pump Pump out any accumulated water. Check the bilge for debris, oil sheen, or anything that shouldn't be there.
- Inspect through-hulls from inside Look for any signs of water intrusion around through-hull fittings. Storm surge can push debris against the hull and damage fittings.
- Check the electrical system Test battery voltage. Check for corrosion on terminals. Verify shore power connections if applicable.
- Document everything with photos Before you clean up or fix anything, photograph the boat from every angle. Document any damage, debris, or displacement. This is your insurance record.
Don't rush cleanup. It is tempting to immediately start putting the boat back together. But photo documentation needs to happen first. Insurance adjusters want to see post-storm condition before repairs begin. Spend 15 minutes taking photos before you touch anything.
What storm prep mistakes cause the most boat damage?
The five most damaging storm prep mistakes are dock lines rigged too tight with no slack for surge, no chafe protection on lines at cleat contact points, leaving bimini tops and canvas up to catch wind, neglecting bilge pump checks before a multi-day storm, and relying on single lines with no redundancy. Every one of these failures is preventable with a few hours of advance preparation.
Most storm damage to boats in Ocean City and the Chesapeake Bay area happens because of avoidable prep errors. Here are the ones that cause the worst outcomes.
Lines too tight
Boats need room to move with surge. Lines rigged tight for normal conditions will snap when the water rises 3 feet. The boat then has no restraint at all, and it drifts into pilings, other boats, or the seawall. Leave enough slack for the predicted surge height, then add another foot of slack for safety.
No chafe protection
A half-inch nylon dock line can saw through in four to six hours of continuous rubbing on an aluminum cleat. A nor'easter lasts 48 hours. Without chafe guards, your lines will fail before the storm ends.
Leaving canvas up
Bimini tops, eisenglass enclosures, and cockpit covers catch wind. In a tropical storm or hurricane, they rip free and either damage the boat's structure on the way off or turn into a hazard for neighboring boats. This damage is almost entirely preventable.
Skipping the bilge pump check
Rainwater alone can fill a bilge during a multi-day storm. Add surge-driven water intrusion and you have a boat that's slowly sinking at the dock. If the bilge pump doesn't work, nobody is coming to fix it during the storm.
Relying on a single point of failure
One bow line, one stern line, two fenders. That's calm-weather rigging. Storm prep means redundancy at every point: doubled lines, extra fenders, backup bilge power. If any single component fails, the others need to hold.
How does storm prep differ by marina in Ocean City and Delmarva?
Storm prep varies significantly by marina location on the Eastern Shore. West Ocean City channel marinas get inlet surge with wind funneling, Isle of Wight and Assawoman Bay marinas face fast-piling surge in shallow water with grounding risk, and Indian River Inlet amplifies tidal current. Fixed docks require more line slack than floating docks, and each marina has its own shore power, access, and haul-out protocols during storms.
Every marina handles storms a little differently. Some things to know about storm preparation for boats on the Eastern Shore:
- West Ocean City marinas sit in the channel behind the barrier island. They get surge from the inlet but are somewhat protected from direct ocean wave action. Wind funnels through the channel, though, creating strong current at the docks.
- Isle of Wight Bay and Assawoman Bay are shallow. Surge piles up faster in shallow water, and when it recedes, boats can ground out if they're in a shallow slip. Know the depth at your slip and whether the boat could touch bottom at extreme low tide after surge recedes.
- Indian River Bay and Rehoboth Bay marinas face similar shallow-water surge issues. The Indian River Inlet creates a bottleneck that amplifies current during tidal surge events.
- Fixed docks vs floating docks matter. On a floating dock, the boat rises and falls with the water. On a fixed dock, lines must accommodate the full range of water height change, which means more slack and careful adjustment.
Pro tip: Talk to your dock master before storm season about their specific protocols. Some marinas shut off shore power during major storms. Some restrict access after a certain wind speed. Some require boats to be hauled out above a certain storm category. Knowing these rules in advance saves you from scrambling at the last minute.
Should you haul your boat out or leave it in the water during a storm?
Haul out for any hurricane Category 2 or higher expected within 75 miles, and consider hauling for Category 1 if your marina has shallow water, fixed docks, or poor surge protection. Boats can typically ride out nor'easters and tropical storms with proper doubled lines, extra fenders, and chafe protection. The critical factor is timing -- call the yard as soon as a storm enters the forecast, because haul-out schedules fill within hours in the Ocean City and Delaware coast area.
This is the biggest decision in storm prep, and there's no universal answer. It depends on the storm, the boat, and the marina.
General guidance:
- Haul out for any hurricane Category 2 or higher expected within 75 miles of your location. Also haul for Category 1 if your marina has shallow water, fixed docks, or poor surge protection.
- Ride it out if the marina has good floating docks, deep water, adequate surge protection, and the storm is tropical storm strength or a typical nor'easter.
- Watch the forecast closely for storms that are borderline. A tropical storm that strengthens to Cat 1 while you're still debating means you missed the window to haul.
If you decide to haul, call the yard immediately. During an active forecast, haul-out schedules fill in hours, not days. Yards in the Ocean City, Berlin, and Delaware coast area can only haul so many boats per day. The earlier you commit, the more likely you get a spot.
Need someone to prep your boat before a storm?
I handle storm prep for boats across Ocean City, the Delaware coast, and the Delmarva back bays. Lines, fenders, canvas, through-hulls, post-storm assessment. You don't have to be at the marina.
What should be in a boat storm prep kit?
A dedicated storm prep kit should include at least four extra dock lines (same diameter or heavier than your primaries, 20 feet minimum each), chafe guards for every contact point, four additional fenders sized for your boat, heavy-duty zip ties, waterproof tape for deck penetrations, a battery-powered backup bilge pump, ratchet straps, and a flashlight with fresh batteries. Keep this kit accessible at home or in the dock box so you can grab it and go when a storm enters the forecast.
Having the right gear on hand before the forecast changes saves hours and stress. Here's what belongs in a dedicated storm bin:
- Extra dock lines (at least 4 lines, same diameter or heavier than your primaries, each at least 20 feet)
- Chafe guards (commercial guards or old fire hose sections, enough for every contact point)
- Extra fenders (at least 4 additional fenders, sized for your boat)
- Heavy-duty zip ties (for lashing canvas, antennas, loose gear)
- Waterproof tape (for sealing deck penetrations)
- Battery-powered bilge pump (backup for if the main system fails)
- Ratchet straps (for securing bimini, outriggers, heavy items)
- Flashlight with fresh batteries (in case you're prepping after dark)
Keep this bin at home or in the dock box. Don't keep it somewhere you can't access quickly. When a storm enters the forecast, you grab it and go.
What do most people overlook when prepping a boat for a storm?
The most overlooked parts of storm prep are communication with your marina about your plan, the condition of your neighbors' boats (a poorly secured boat next to yours is a direct threat), post-storm access timing (roads and marinas may be closed for 24-48 hours after a major storm), and repeated storm patterns where you need to keep storm rigging in place between events rather than standing down too early.
The physical prep gets most of the attention, but there are a few things that are easy to overlook.
Communication with your marina. Let the dock master know your storm plan. Are you hauling? Are you prepping in place? Is someone else prepping for you? If the marina doesn't know your plan, they can't coordinate around it, and that creates problems for everyone at the dock.
Your neighbors' boats. Storm prep is only as good as the weakest link at the dock. If the boat next to you breaks free, it's going to hit your boat on the way out. Check on neighboring boats if you can, and alert the marina if a neighbor's boat looks under-prepped.
Post-storm access timing. After a major storm, roads flood, bridges close, and marinas restrict access. You might not be able to check your boat for 24 to 48 hours after the storm passes. Your prep needs to account for the boat being on its own for that entire period without anyone able to intervene.
Repeated storms. A single nor'easter is manageable. Three nor'easters in two weeks, with barely enough time to re-rig between them, is a different situation. If your area is in an active storm pattern, keep the storm rig on. Don't fully stand down until the pattern breaks.
The real risk is procrastination. Most storm damage happens to boats whose owners waited too long to act. The forecast changes, they plan to "go down tomorrow," and tomorrow the marina is already locked down. Start prep as soon as a storm enters the 5-day forecast. You can always undo the prep if the storm misses.